Cowra, N.S.W.

The cities of Wangaratta, Wodonga and Albury were bypassed by the Hume Highway as we ventured further north. A large sign told us that we were travelling though Wiradjuri Country, recognising the indigenous history of the area. We called into Holbrook for a spot of lunch and fuel, and were amazed to see a large submarine sitting in the main park. The HMAS Otway was decommissioned in 1995 and the hulk was purchased by the local council to commemorate the town’s namesake, Lieutenant Holbrook, who was a submarine captain in the First World War. Prior to 1915, the town was called Germantown - I can see why they changed their name in 1915.

Further on up the road, as the countryside became undulating and hilly, and we came to Gundagai. Five miles north, as the song says, was indeed a little statue of historical significance, depicting a drover’s dog sitting on a large lunch box. I was interested to see that the “Dog on the Tuckerbox” was unveiled by Tasmania’s only Prime Minister, Joseph Lyons, in 1932 as a tribute to pioneers. Jack O’Hagan wrote the famous song in 1937.

Foundations of  Cowra POW camp.

We travelled through Wallenbeen, Young, and on to Cowra for a couple of days. We learned that this fascinating little city (population ten thousand) has a strong Japanese connection from the Second World War, due to a large Prisoner-of-War prison in the town. We wandered through the remains of this sad and sombre place, amongst foundations of accommodation and toilet blocks. It held many thousands of captured Japanese, Italian and Indonesian soldiers in the early 1940s. The Japanese staged a breakout at 2am on August 5th, 1944, and of the 545 who made the attempt, 231 were killed as well as four Australian guards. We visited where they were buried, which is apparently now the only Japanese war cemetery outside of Japan. In a nice twist on the war, these graves have been looked after by the local RSL, and accordingly Cowra has had a symbolic link to Japan – and peace.

A large Japanese garden was developed in the late 1970s and today it’s the largest such garden in the southern hemisphere. While there, we rang a Japanese Peace Bell, and it’s note resonated for many minutes with a beautiful tone. We then spent hours walking the many paths and sitting under shady trees in beautiful surroundings. I struck up a conversation with a young lady who was pruning a weeping cherry tree. She had graduated as a horticulturist and had worked in these gardens for five years, being responsible for a specific section that gave her a sense of ownership. She loved coming to work every day, and what a wonderful office she

Glenrowan, Victoria.

Tahbilk underground cellars.

The time came to head north as we have appointments to meet in coming weeks, so we left the precincts of Melbourne and hit the Calder Highway. What always grabs our attention is the flatness of the countryside. Perfectly level paddocks, fields and forests extend in all directions, eventually giving way to hills in the far distance. We drove through Lancefield, Kilmore, Euroa and Benalla, stopping for lunch at one of our favourite wineries, Chateau Tahbilk. This was the third time we’d visited this magic place, and wandering through its underground cellars, built in 1860, was still as magical as the first time thirty years ago. The musty smell and low light, the cobwebs hanging from the arched roof, the huge century old oak barrels – were matched outside by the gnarly old vine trunks in the vineyards – they too were a century old. Simply amazing, and the latest vintage red wines were still exceptional.

Tahbilk century-old vines.

Our day finished in Glenrowan, where the Ned Kelly legend lured us into a little caravan park for a couple of nights. After two years on the run as an outlaw, Ned Kelly was captured in June, 1880, near what is now the corner of Siege Street and Beaconsfield Parade, just around the corner from our Glenrowan caravan park. He was hanged in Melbourne in November later that year, aged just 25. It was quite surreal to walk around the historic site of Ned’s capture and follow the events of that day 138 years ago. Yes, he was a bad boy in a very brutal time, but Ned’s story is so well-known that it’s hard not to be overawed by being so close to the legend. This region is also a renowned wine growing district, and we visited two icons of contrasting operations – the huge Brown Brothers conglomerate at Milawa and the small boutique Baileys of Glenrowan. The slick, corporate touch was no match for the friendly, personal family business, both in the welcome and the excellent wines.

Ned Kelly's final stand.

Indented Head and Gisborne, Victoria

Our caravan had sat patiently in the front yard for a few months while we enjoyed our beautiful granddaughter. Watching her grow and develop has been a heart-warming and joyous experience. Tearing ourselves away from little Lucy Kate wasn’t easy, but we hooked up the van to the Pajero and went back on the road for three months with the intention of reaching Mt Isa in Far North Central Queensland, promising to be back for Lucy’s first birthday in October. We still have a bad case of the Travel Bug, and there is an urgency to see more of Australia while we’re still fit and able to. The caravan hasn’t been used very much this year – a few weeks at the beach over Christmas/New Year and the occasional few days here and there. I’m sure the poor old girl was feeling neglected. It was time to get her wheels turning.

Bass Strait was not kind to us for the overnight sailing to the mainland. I suppose we were due for a rough crossing as it was our third trip in as many years and they’ve all been smooth and calm until this one. It was a case of hanging on for dear life while trying not to get tossed out of bed, and the mad dash to the bathroom was virtually impossible while the room was heaving from side to side. Thank goodness for the emergency sick bags being close by.

Anyway, things calmed down after 3am and some sleep was had before landfall arrived on schedule at 6am. First port of call was a few days at Indented Head near Geelong on the Bellarine Peninsula, and the home of friends Jenny and John. Having recently retired and moved from suburban Melbourne to this portside community, we could see why they’ve bought where they have. It’s a quiet and peaceful lifestyle combined with all the facilities of nearby Drysdale, Portarlington and Geelong. The foul weather that had upset our tummies on the voyage over continued for a few more days, but the sun eventually came out. We explored local wineries, cafes, beaches and scenic views. It certainly is a spectacular part of the country, and our hosts made us warmly welcome in their lovely new home.

The wreck of an old paddle steamer at Indented Head, Port Philip Bay.

When the time came to move on, the journey north began with a few days visiting Andrew and Pip in Gisborne, north-east of Melbourne. A year on from our last visit, it was like visiting old friends again, both the town and the family. It’s just another friendly, unique and intriguing part of the world.

A superb night at a little jazz club called “Wine O’Clock” in downtown Gisborne was a real treat. In such an intimate setting, it was as though they were playing just for us. And I must say it was delightful to take the dogs for a walk along the streets of Gisborne, particularly as they are flat. Just up the Calder Freeway is the delightful little town of Woodend, where the Holgate Hotel sits on the main street. After visiting there two years ago, it was very nice to re-sample some boutique beers from their on-site brewery.

We accompanied the family on a journey into Melbourne city by train to see an exhibition from New York’s Museum of Modern Art at the National Gallery of Victoria. It covered 130 years of artwork from artists such as Matisse, van Gogh, Gaugin, Toulouse-Lautrec, Picasso, Dali, Pollock and Whitely. Seeing original paintings by these masters was quite amazing. Certainly not something we do very often (actually, at all).

"Winter Wednesday" at Wine O'Clock, downtown Gisborne.

Taking the dogs for a walk with Pip and Andrew.

An original Brett Whitely.