Rockhampton

Throughout this journey we have utilised the tool that is essential when travelling around Oz. It’s called “Wikicamps”, it’s installed on your mobile phone, and it’s worth many times the seven dollar investment. Essentially a GPS satellite navigator, it points out caravan parks, camping grounds and points of interest together with reviews, photos and prices. Before moving on to our next night’s location, we refer to Wikicamps to figure out routes, destinations, distances and travel times. There’s little wonder why it’s so popular amongst travellers, and by following the traditional “wiki” philosophy, the more people who use it and update it, the more accurate it is. In this instance, we were yearning for a quiet camp after the hustle and bustle of the popular tourist spots along the Queensland coast. Wikicamps recommended a bush camp to the north of Rockhampton called “Fardooleys”, so we phoned ahead to secure a spot and tried it out. It was a revelation – low key because it does not advertise, and delightful for its simplicity.

Fardooley's Bush Camp.

Sitting high on a hill with spectacular views to the south over Rockhampton and the surrounding hillside, a large flat area provided room for about a dozen caravans along with a rudimentary but clean toilet/shower block, powered by solar panels for lights and a wood fire for hot water. Caravans had to provide their own solar power but water was available to each site. The owners Peter and Robyn were long retired and used the $12 a night per caravan to help boost their income, but we sensed that they received a lot more from meeting guests than from any financial gain. We were literally parked in their backyard, and they hosted drinks every day at 5pm in their own private entertainment area, where Robyn would pass around plates of nibblies, the guitars and ukuleles would come out and people from all over the world would socialise and chat. We spent four days here amongst new-found friends, enjoying the view and the beautiful sounds of the bush provided by a chorus of birds in the surrounding trees.
Of course we also explored Rockhampton and nearby Yeppoon, Emu Bay, Byfield National Park and Capricornia Caves. Rocky is a charming city of lovely parks and streets lined with palm trees and heritage buildings, giving it a certain charm. In contrast, Yeppoon is a trendy resort town on the coast with restaurants, cafes, bars and shops, with Great Keppel Island just a few kilometres out the sea. I think we’ve grown familiar with such places - Port Douglas, Palm Cove, Mission Beach, Airlie Beach and Yeppoon all share a similar vibe. They are beautiful places that not surprisingly attract thousands of tourists and provide access to the Great Barrier Reef, but at the same time they also lack a certain allure. Peter and Robyn’s bush camp was a welcome relief.

Capricornia caves, near Rockhampton.

Our next stay was another Wikicamps recommendation, in the old historic mining town of Mt Morgan on the southern side of Rocky. We asked a lot of the Pajero to haul the caravan up the winding and steep mountainside road but it didn’t miss a beat. We drove through the quaint and fascinating little town to reach the Silver Wattle Caravan Park, to be greeted by owners Sarah and Mark and their two small children. They also provided nibblies in their camp kitchen for 4 o’clock drinkies where we got to know the family better and met other park guests. Sarah and Mark received our admiration after learning their story – selling their Melbourne business to find a caravan park to buy, finding the Silver Wattle in northern Queensland and converting it from a run-down dump into a beautifully landscaped park that is a pleasure to stay in. The kids attend the local primary school and the business has become an essential cog in the economy of the town. They were a delightful family, and we stayed for four nights, including the first Queensland V N.S.W. State of Origin rugby game. Well, when in Rome, do as the Romans do.

The charming village of Mt Morgan.