The Main River, Germany

A few days into the 15-day cruise and we’re feeling a combination of contemplative relaxation and intense excitement. A daily routine has quickly developed – a comfortable sleep, a delicious breakfast, an intriguing excursion to a unique European city, an equally delicious evening meal with wine, and finish the day with a party and a nightcap. The very first thing to do in the morning is to open the curtains and lie in bed watching the ever-changing scenery. It’s like a huge movie screen showing a documentary on German river life, and a commentary is not required. The only sound to be heard is the gentle ripple of the water as the ship glides silently upstream. Some of the trees are beginning to change colour, like splashes of yellow, red and orange paint on a green canvas.

Our cabin window with an ever-changing view.

 People’s homes sit proudly on the river bank as their garden finishes at the water’s edge. The inhabitants go about their daily business commuting to work, walking their dogs (there are a lot of German Shepherds), wheeling a pram, dangling a fishing line, or camping in their caravan or motorhome (we’ve seen many riverside camping grounds, and they are all well attended). Ducks, geese and swans ignore us as we float by, too interested in finding their next meal. Sometimes the trees open out to reveal rolling hills of thick forests or fields of crops, grazing animals or grass pasture. Our progress eastwards is frequently slowed by passing through several locks each day as we gradually rise to the highest point in the European water drainage divide. Towns are marked by a church spire or steeple. A commuter train rushes by. We pass under bridges that vary from the very old, made of stone, to the ultra-modern made of concrete and steel. Some are so low that the sundeck is closed and the wheelhouse is actually lowered by hydraulics to enable the ship to pass.

Our cabin television shows a bow-cam, in High Definition.

 We’ve spent a day in Cologne with its gigantic cathedral, and then passed through the spectacular Rhine Gorge, 65 kilometres of geology, history and agriculture. On the northern side are hundreds of vineyards that’ve been planted on seemingly impossible slopes. By facing south the grapes make the most of the sunshine, but it’s hard to imagine a more difficult place to plant your vines. Most of these grapes are riesling, the origin of the famous Rhine Riesling. Several castles were perched high on the cliffs above us, some in ruins while others have been restored. Dating from several hundred to a couple of thousands years old, they look down us as if granting us permission to pass. Sometimes the grassy slopes give way to sheer rock faces several hundred metres high, but there’s always a little village or town located whenever the riverbank provides the opportunity, all with very German names like Oberwesel, Kaub, Urbar or Lykershausen.

One of many castles along the Rhine Gorge - part ruins, part restored.

 We stopped in the charming little town of Rudesheim, which happens to be the hometown of our Cruise Directory Werney, and he passionately commended its features. He was absolutely right, with little bars and cafes selling locally made wine and beer in narrow streets and laneways. A delight to get lost in. Further on upstream we stopped at Milternberg and Wertheim and Wurzburg. All of these cities were destroyed during the Second World War, and it’s remarkable how much work has gone into rebuilding them.