Tenterfield, N.S.W

 The journey continued ever northwards, after returning to Rylstone to pick up the caravan. The decision to travel the hilly New England Highway instead of the much flatter Newell Highway was a good one, as the Bylong Valley’s majestic rusty-red cliffs towered above us. The Pajero hauled the caravan up some steep hills while we were in awe of the views. Rocky outcrops poked through some dense forests to reveal the underlying geology of the Goulburn River National Park. It was a long day’s drive through Muswellbrook, Scone and Tamworth before pulling up at the little town of Bendemeer for the night. The caravan park represented the town – small, simple and rural – but the meal at the pub was superb. An easier shorter day followed, as we reached the charming little city of Tenterfield for a two night stay in Barnaby Joyce territory.

This fascinating place demanded a day-long stopover to explore the tantalising story of a famous local resident immortalised in a very famous song. Everyone knows Peter Allen’s song “Tenterfield Saddler”, released in 1972, that tells the story of three generations of his family over three verses. The first verse was about Peter’s grandfather George Woolnough, after whom the title refers. We learned that the words in the first verse are indeed very true. George’s saddlery building is still there in High Street, and he ran his business, and sat on his verandah, for 52 years before retiring in 1960. As the song says  – “The late George Woolnough, worked in High Street – for 52 years, he sat on his verandah”. It remains open for anyone to walk through its three small rooms, filled with old leathering tools and sewing machines.

"For 52 years he sat on his verandah" - this verandah.

The second line mentions how George “lived on manners”, which I took to mean that he was a polite gentlemen. What it actually means is that while his shop was on High Street, he lived in his house on Manners Street, which was also where our caravan park was located. So George just lived down the road from where we stayed. In the middle of town is the library, and indeed it does have a new wing that was recently built and named as the George Woolnough Wing. As the song says - “He lived without sin, they’re building a library to him”.

The "George Woolnough Wing" of the  Tenterfield library.

I met an old fella in the town called Wayne, who was in his 70s and a bikie, and he went to school with Peter Allen and knew old George. He told me that the Tenterfield Saddler really was a thorough gentleman, always giving his time to have a yarn and help you out. Wayne felt let down by Peter’s song, saying that it just cashed in on George’s story for Peter’s financial gain. That may be true but that song has brought world-wide attention to this small Aussie rural town. By the way, the town will be holding a "Peter Allen Festival" in a few weeks.

I finished this journey by seeking, and finding, George’s final resting place at the Tenterfield cemetery, buried next to his wife. He died in 1963, only three years after retiring. He would never get to hear the music of his famous grandson.